The Coliseum

We woke up late and had the wonderful breakfast buffet at our Hotel. It was still raining in Rome, but it was warm at the same time. We finally venture to the Coliseum, but we thought we'd try the Roman Metro.

Rome's Metro was very run down compared to that of London and France. The Roman Metro only had 2 lines, Linea A (Orange) and Linea B (Blue). They crossed at the terminal Termini and they ventured off in different directions. The two Metro lines formed the letter X across the city. It was wonderful using the Metro but the problem with the Roman Metro is, there wasn't enough lines, hence, there wasn't enough Metro Entry/Exit Points. The nearest Metro Point to our hotel was Barberini, which was at least a 10 minute walk. We had to catch the Linea A line to Termini, then switch to the Linea B line which ran across the paths of the Coliseum and all the adjascent ruins.

To use the Roman Metro, there was the option of a day pass for 11 Euros each, but there was also the option of buying a 75 minute Metro Ticket for 1 Euro. Fanie quickly did the calculations, and she figured we would be better off buying the 75 minute 1 Euro ticket per person. She was right, we did 3 lots of 75 minute trips in the whole entire day, and it cost us a total of 9 Euros for the day for the 3 of us. Now how's that savings for money! It was the cheapest day tour to where-ever we wanted to go, to date.

We did our switch from the Linea A Metro line to the Linea B Metro line and surfaced at the Coliseum Metro exit point, which stood us right in front of the Ancient Roman Coliseum, in all its glory. I was spellbound. I was just taken aback at the sheer size and splendor of it all! It was the most spectacular sight I've seen to date. Now, I know I've said that before but ... what can I say? The bar just keeps shifting. The Coliseum was absolutely an amazing technological achievement from people starting out in the Iron Age, but still reliant on Stone Age and Bronze Age know how. The Coliseum housed 120,000 people, that is 60% more capasity that the Ami Football Stadium in Adelaide.

As per usual, the vultures of society were hovering around the Coliseum searching for dead or dying prey. Tour Guides throw their bodies in front of you left, right and centre. I was waiting for them to absail from the walls of the Coliseum as we got closer, but I figured that they hadn't thought of that yet since it didn't happen. They were asking for prey to pay them 15 Euro per person for a Tour. They promised you a full Commentary Tour, a quick entrance through the Coliseum without waiting for hours in the que, and they promised commentry for the other 2 surrounding ruins (one being Maximas Circus) and free entrance into the Coliseum. However, Fanie and I knew that the Coliseum was free from people we spoke to and met on the HOHO Tours. I knew that the Tour Guides would provide us with detailed information about every nook and cranny about the Coliseum and its surrounding ruins but at the end of the day I wanted to see the Coliseum for different reasons, not critical historical information because I like history, but not at a scholarly level. I wanted to sense the energy, the technical detail of the structures, the joy, tension and anxieties this Coliseum offered. I could hop into any Tour and grab enough information (just the initial bit) but then I didn't have to stay on to here the ramblings of stories that the Tour Guide could not in all honesty validate, or knowing things such as they ran 20 events a session in the Ancient days. All I know was that they were cruel times with the Gladiators and Slaves, and it's part of our history. Breathing the air, feeling the sun and the breeze, seeing the vegetation and touching the structures made of stone and marble that these same people from thousands of years ago was the emotional experience I was seeking ... and I got. It was a form of communication from the past. Overall, a breathetaking emotional experience.

It was wonderful also, seeing all the local young men dressed up in Gladiator outfits, priding themselves and strutting around on their heritage (I just hope they realise that it wasn't them that created this monalith marvel, but their/our ancesters). But, boy, were they ruthless. They were forcing themselves onto tourists and having photos taken with them, then charging them 5 Euros a shot. I know, I paid for 2 shots. But then, just about everybody did because of the experience. It was funny though, one of the Gladiators was smoking a modern cigarette, another two decided to take a break and sit on the fence posts counting wods of Euro bills from their inside short pockets.

We walked to the old neighboring ruins but cut that trip short because it was raining, plus we spent a lot of time covering the Coliseum, making us physically tired. We jumped on the Metro and decided to stop at the interchange at Metro Termini. It was a great choice we made. We ended up in one of the largest Train/Bus/Metro exchanges I've ever seen in my life. Surface trains, international trains, national trains, local buses, international buses, both metro lines, all met at one central location. There were thousands of people commuting and cross walking through this massive Terminal. There was an even mix of locals and tourists commuters, gathering and then branching off to their new destinations. There were accommodating shops, malls, stalls, restaurants, etc., to meet the demands of all these commuters. It was in fact a mini city within the city of Rome.

Fanie and Harmony fell in love with the shops there and found new energy just browsing through the stores. I waited outside, buying Orange Juice for a homeless person, who turned it down because he wanted money instead, but I left it on the ground for him, just in case he changed his mind. I got told off by one of the Termini Security Officers for taking video footage at Termini. I found a coffee shop and made friends with local Italians who had Italian relatives in Australia. They all wanted me to let them about their relative and they wanted to know how they were going.

After hours at Termini (well, I think it was hours) Fanie and Harmony come out of a store and Harmony had bought herself a top for the Equestian Theatre show we were going that night. She said that she didn't spend my money (don't know why she said that) but it was the money Destiny gave her (don't know why she said that either). Fanie, Harmony and I ventured out of the Termini Metro Point and walked around the district. Fanie and Harmony found a makeup store and spent more time there. I sat outside on the steps of the store just watching people general, but I was harrassed by a Gypsy trying to sell me an Umbrella, because it was still raining. He was hassling me for 5 Euro's. I was sitting at the steps fo the Makeup store and couldn't be bothered to walk away. I fingered him 2 Euros to piss him off and he vigorously shock his head (which please me), and kept insisting 5 Euros. I had observed others were trying to get the price down, but he insisted and managed to scored 5 Euros from all of them. But I refused to be like them and decided to not acknowledge his presence after my offer of 2 Euros (more tongue in cheek than anyting else ... just throw up 2 at his face and watch him go balistic ... it was cool ... but don't try think of trying it ... you really don't know the outcomes). Anywa, he came back frustrated with me and fingered me 3 Euros. I jumped at it and said 'yes' because, afterall, it was still raining, and I wanted to win ... I was happy at my conquest! I bought this awesome brown checkered umbrella for 3 Euro's ... I thought to myself ... bloke thinking ... sucked in! It stopped raining then and didn't rain for the rest of the day ... so I never actually got to use it, let alone get it wet. Now I'm carrying it around with me in my suitcase.

Fanie and Harmony ventured out of the makeup store. I have no idea what they did in there; don't care. We then walked to the St Maria's Cathedral, which was close to the store we were at. Now a Cathedral is different to a church. About 1 million churches fit into 1 Cathedral. Then the penny dropped right then and there. I live in a City of Churches in Adelaide; Rome is the City of Cathedrals. Go figure! Just an interesting thought ...

As we were going back to the Termini Metro we found a funky Pizza place and got 1 piece of pizza slice each for 2 Euros each to have as a snack. Oh ... did I forget to mention that a pizza slice in Termini, Rome, is like a large pizza back in Adelaide? Fanie, Harmony and I sampled each others slices. They were not plain Pizza's as some would have you believe in Adelaide, these were Pizza's with chunky vegetables on them (1 chunk is about 1/2 a vegetable) and they had awesome flavours with slabs of seafood chunks, capsicums chunks, roast potato (???? what the ???), olives, all on a tomato sauce base. Then, as if that's not enough, you get an Olive Oil Chilly Sauce to squirt "all over it"! Can't be healthy but it sure was one hell of a pizza. They leave any Australian or American pizza for dead. Shame on us!

We finally got onto the Metro from Termini and went back to our Hotel from the Baberini Metro point, followed this time by a 10 minute walk, up slope, to our Hotel. We all had a rest and then got ready for the Equestrian Live Show tonight.

As we were resting Harmony was chatting with Cousin Hara on MSN. They decided to Skype each other and they made first audio/visual contact. We hear and saw Hara for the first time. Her accent was so wonderful and cute (yes ... blokes from Downunder can use the word cute). Hara then got her parents involved and everybody was chatting to everybody else. I was so tired I resonded to them in a calm Greek volcab way, and they said that my Greek was better than Fanie's. Fanie took offense to this and told them my Greek is not ... and I reassured them it was not. It just so happened that the questions they were asking required 3 year old responses. And I have mastered 3 year old responses in Greek ... but that is my upper limit. They did not get this.

We finally said our goodbyes and went down to the lobby to get picked up for the Roma: The Imperial Age dinner theatre show.

A quite Italian man in his mid thirties came and picked us up from the hotel to take us to the Roma: The Imperial Age, Live Dinner Equestrian Show. For 60 Euros per person it gave us a personal cheoffer to and from theatre (which was 45 minutes drive each way ... like going from Adelaide to Gawler), an Equestrian Theatre performance, and a 5 course Ancient Roman meal. That was value for money.

Fabio was the drivers name, and he drove us all the way to the theatre, a 45 minute drive to the country side of Rome. We hit the Roman freeway, which as quite modern and we were impressed with the view of the country side. I wanted to talk to Fabio, bt we couldn't communicate and made it impossible. He was so polite and apologetic. We finally entered the farming areas of Rome and then we turn off the main street onto a dirt road that lead us to an out door theatre tent. We were the first car to arrive, in a few moments scores of other cars rolled in. It was still day light and I was absolutely blown away with the sight and the atmosphere. They tent was huge, and the ticket box was setup as an old Roman hut. The women and men were dressed up with Ancient Roman attire. There were mean looking Gladiators guading the entrance of the tent with their long spears. I looked into the tent and the arena was very small, but big enough for the show. On either side of the rectangular arean were long wooden bench tables stretching from end to end and tiered to 3 levels. The benches had hundreds of clay plates spread right across in even spacing. They were stacked 4 plates high (one for each course) and a bowl. There were huge clay jugs spread evenly across the massive bench, alternately filled with red wine and crystal clear chilled mountain water. There were fire lamps spread evenly inside and outside of the tent. The entrance had huge fate golden arched doors scultured with Ancient Roman details. There were to huge arched entrance for the horses and chariots onto the main arena area which at soil as its flooring, just recently moistened with water so as to stop the dust becoming air borne as the horses, chariots and wagons did their part of the live show. What made it more spectacular was the fact that we were on actual Roman soil, smelling the aroma of actual scented Roman vegetation and fresh mountainous air. We could see the actual skyline of day and night, with stars, moon, cloud covering of a Roman environment. Watching a story in theatre form, told to us by the modern Romans. You can't get better than that (... or can you?).

We finally officially entered the arena area. We were first in line as we were the first there. As we entered, ancient Roman Servants escorted us to a fountain of wine (well, it was red grape juice because this show accommodated for lots of children). We were given a huge clay cup and went to the fountain spirting red grape juice from a two headed dragon, into our cups. It was fun, and I was buzzed out. The ancient Roman servants took us to the bench area, and we moved along and sat down.

When everybody was seated, more Ancient Roman Servants, men and women, came out with platters of food held in large straw trays. The first round saw the servants going to each person and filling up their top clay platter with celery, cheeses, olives, bread. Then they came around again with dips. Meanwhile we were filling up our large clay mugs with water and wine.

Then the huge bass blares of ancient Roman music began, and the light of the arena light up. The Roman Imperial guards spead open the two large draps of yellow and red vertical stipes, from the two large archway. Then out comes a chariot with horses riddent by a Gladiator and Cleopatra (who, by the way was an Egyptian Queen from a Geek background, but eventually fell under the Roman Empire and dominance). It was great seeing all these modern young Roman Adults playing out the Ancient Roman Gladiators. The story commenced with Cleopatra ruling in Egypt, then the conquest of the Roman Empire to extend into Egypt (I don't think Egyptians would be insulted by this, as it was just a story from history ... no judgement was made).

Then out ventured all the other Gladiators and Roman Gladiator women. To our shock and suprise, one of the scariest and fearful Gladiators was our very own, quiet and petite Choffer, Fabio, who has now turned into a fearful Gladiator who you would pack it in for if you saw him in the streets. There were Gladiator fight scenes. Horse rider fight scences, horse riding stunts, and Emporer assinations. In between scenes there were dance sequences were young women did synchronised dancing to Ancient Roman music. The dancing ranged from Egyptian through to the more recent meditaranian and belly dancing seen today.

Our meals continued throughout the show. We had a rissotto dish (the children were given modern day pasta dishes), we had fish and meat cooked in the Ancient Roman style served with potato (the kids were given crumbed fish and chips). There were nutted butter biscuits given out at the end as well. After 5 courses of food, you felt quite full.

The show finished with all the performers coming to the edge of the arena and allowing people to talk to them, pat their horses, ride their horses, feed their horses, all for free. The children (and adults) loved it. Many adult road the horses. I wanted a photo taken with one of the young Gladiators, and as I was having the photo taken by Harmony, he grabs me, and pulls me towards himself in a big bloke shoulder hug for the photo. I was chuffed.

When it was finished, we waited for Fabio, our driver to come and pick us up. When he came, I congratulated him and told him I was impressed. There were a woman actress next to him who knew English very well. She translating it back to him. She wanted to know what I thought. I told her that as a person from Australia, this is exactly what I wanted to see, a Roman Story about Ancient Rome, told in a truly Roman environment with trees, sky, stars, breeze ... the whole atmosphere. She was so excited about my comments. She told me that they were a group of Actors and Circus performers who decided to band together to come up with this concept. It has only being going on for 2 weeks. I reassured her, that if the marketing is right, she will have a great success on her hands. I asked her to ask Fabbio not to hurt us on the way back to our hotel, because I was scared of him now. Fabbio just laughed his head off, and he had the biggest smile of pride on his face because I let him know he was a good performer.

Check out their YouTube page on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbiYQyc9SEY

and their web site on http://www.theimperialage.com/

Finally I have an understading of Rome and its modern Romans, and why they don't want to change Rome to a modern metropolis by destroying their anscestors buildings. The modern Roman is not willing to sacrifice their heritage. They will instead develop modern urban infrastructures and build urban comforts around their ancestrial structues, even if it means financial and social costs and constraints, sacraficing the comfort and ease provided by modern city facilities. They will tolerate the inconvenience and work around the problem, and they intend finding a solution to achieve both. I am confident that they will!