Days 1-3: Warsaw, Poland----Falling in Love!

Lonely Soul Along Koscielelna Street
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I came to Warsaw with very few expectations, except to spend time visiting with several close friends who now live in the city.  To my surprise, the city is one that is exceedingly fascinating, and without a doubt more charming and beautiful than the “ugliest city in Europe” title that some tour books stamp upon it.  Perhaps my respect for the layering of infrastructure, architecture and services in a meticulously planned fashion color my perspective on the city in such a way that I am blinded to the subtle imperfections that may otherwise taint its’ image.

To my surprise, the city is one that is exceedingly fascinating, and without a doubt more charming and beautiful than the “ugliest city in Europe” title that some tour books stamp upon it. Perhaps my respect for the layering of infrastructure, architecture and services in a meticulously planned fashion color my perspective on the city in such a way that I am blinded to the subtle imperfections that may otherwise taint its’ image.

Street Vender Along Krakowski Przedmiescie
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The city itself is historically one of much sorrow and strife:  from the bombings of WWII to the regime of communism that continues to create a unique mentality of “do what we must to survive” among its citizens (exhibits of the Jewish Ghettos that once existed, memorials, as well as stories of the terrible death sentences that affected every community in the city can be found almost everywhere you turn), and even the modern day paradoxes that challenge the city as it progresses into 21^st century with the speed of a lion.  Although much of Warsaw has been adapted to it’s new status as a member of the European Union: new paving along Nowy Swiat Street (like Georgetown or Embassy Row in Washington, DC), modernized transportation options (a north-south metro, buses and light rail trams that run citywide every ten minutes most hours of the day, and even pedestrian and automotive flow that seems to operate quite seamlessly), and state-of-the-art shopping centers and community gathering spaces, there remain many remnants of a city that has endured tremendous hardships.  As the native Polish residents try to explain to me, there is a sense of skepticism and weariness towards the prospects for upward mobility in a capitalistic society---to the extent that some people suppress their incomes in order to avoid taxation in a modern system of governing. As I get to know the city better, I hope to be able to elaborate on this more.

City Hall in the Fog
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In the 72 hours that I have walked the city, there are several distinctive “centers” that seem to unify Warsaw:  the first being The Palace of Culture and Science, a 30-story monument that sits at the center of “modern” Warsaw and the evolving commercial and business districts of the city, and the second, Nowy Swiat Street and the plazas of old and new town Warsaw that are the center of a thriving culture of community for residents, tourists, and even a few stray flying fowl alike.  What is impressive in both of these unique city centers, is the diversity, density and vibrancy of activity that occurs.  In the plazas of old towne for example, you will find gossiping senior citizens on park benches as well as folk artists, in addition to amateur teenager skateboarders and break dancers coexisting quite peacefully.  As expected, these central city monuments are only two small sections of a much larger city that accommodates at least 2 million people.

Barbikan Wall and New Market City
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Unlike the glamorous facades of Warsaw’s business and cultural cores, communities like Praga, Saska Kepa and Goclaw are representative of the places where “everyday” working Polish people live.  Although, still extremely accessible to central city via public transport, one must cross the Vistula River and go Eastwards to find the jungle of dense urban apartment complexes that define this area of suburban Warsaw.  The density of buildings, in addition to the commingling of functions within every block is quite remarkable.  It is very likely to find street side/sidewalk fresh-fruit and vegetable markets, alongside traditions supermarkets, in addition to bakeries and restaurants in almost every block----elements of excellent urban design that create thriving communities, as well as accessibility to essential elements of healthy living.

Marching Forward With Shadows of the Past
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I hope that many people will visit Warsaw when the occasion presents itself.  You will find more than enough to do, whether over a weekend, or during a semester studying (yes….there are several large universities in Warsaw), I am sure that you too will find something to fall in love with.