An Attractive Young Italian - Capri

Friday- Capri

After our day yesterday, I say to Bob that we need a rest day! Unfortunately, Bob says no, we need to head straight back it the frey. So, no rest for the wicked, we head off for the Isle of Capri. It is another crack of dawn departure, and we make it to the jetty outside our campsite at the designated time of 8.40am. The boat ride is again along the coastline past Sorrento and Amalfi – beautiful. Because we arrive in Capri quite early (enough said!!), we beat many of the tourists and head straight to the jetty that sells tickets to the Blue Grotto. Before we know it we are herded into a small open boat with a group of about 15 Japanese tourists and off we go to the Grotto. It is a short boat ride hugging the rugged, limestone coastline – quite spectacular.

When we arrive at the Grotto we see the sight of about 10 little row boats, each with one oarsman and big enough for 4 people. We and another Japanese couple are designated one particular little boat with a most attractive young Italian man who does the rowing. The young Italian runs an eye over the four of us and then indicates to Bob that he must step into the little boat first – and lie down! Bob does as he is told while the young Italian tries his best to steddy the little boat. Next it is me, with the same instruction – I am to lie down next to Bob. Then the Japanese lady, who is asked to squeeze in, and lie between Bob and I, with her head almost resting in Bob's crutch. Bob looks at me with alarm as the Japanese lady somewhat embarrassingly and delicately lies down. I return a look of “you will be OK” to Bob. The Japanese husband lies down at the front end of the little boat. We all feel quite strange lying down – but as the young Italian explains, the entrace into the Blue Grotto is extremely small, and he has to push the boat through, timing his push exactly right between the swells. We can therefore have no body part protruding above the edge of the boat – otherwise it will either impede our entry or be knocked off! As we row towards the entrance, there are four sets of wide eyes peering out of the boat, looking at the entrance which one minute looks like a hole bearly wide and high enough to push a surf board through and the next minute is closed up by the swell. So off we go, our fate in the hands of the attractive young Italian. He eyes the tiny hole in the wall and watches the swell intently, in and out, in and out – and then all of a sudden we are off! Between swells, he rows like mad, tells us to keep our heads right down, crouches over and we are through – phew! Once inside, we are allowed to sit up, which is no easy feat in our current positions but what we see is a large cave with crystal clear, azure blue water – it is absolutely amazing - just beautiful. The Grotto's iridescent blue light is pure magic – apparently caused by the refraction of sunlight off the sides of the entrance, coupled with the reflecton off the white sandy bottom. The young Italian rows around the cave a few times (still standing) while singing us a romantic song. It is hardly romantic with a Japanese couple you have never met before, but whatever the young Italian sings if fine by me! Before we know it, our time is up and we are told to “assume our positions” once again. The young Italian again watches the swell, in and out, in and out with the four of us again awaiting our fate. But the attractive young Italians is a deft hand at this and we are through the hole – swish - no trouble at all. The whole experience in the Blue Grotto takes only 5 minutes or so but it is a wonderful! Oh, and did I mention the boat rower was a young, very attractive Italian!

Once we are back to Capri, Bob and I wander around a few of the lovely streets and then catch the furnicular to the top of the mountain to Ana Capri. Oh, before we catch the furnicular, Bob claims he has nothing to wear, so we pop into a shop and buy him a nice polo t-shirt with “Capri” written on it – Bob is happy now. Ana Capri seems to be the wealthy sister of Capri – it has the lovely cobble stoned streets but full of expensive but beautiful clothing shops and immacuately presented restaurants and cafes.

That afternoon, rather than risk our lives with another bus ride home, we decide to hang the expense and catch the boat home (the boats are much more expensive than the buses – although a little less life threatening!). When we arrive at the designated jetty no. 8, who are waiting but Kerry, Bevan and Brenda from Gladstone. They too have had a lovely day in Capri and the Blue Grotto and we have a good old chat about travelling life, sharing experiences etc. Before we know it an hour has passed and still no boat (it was to arrive in 10 minutes!). Bob says he will go back to the ticket office and find out what is going on – good on you Bob! After a while Bob comes back and explains that the boat we were to catch decided to leave from another jetty, no. 13 down the beach a bit – but not to worry, there will be another one by in half and hour or so – you've got to love these Italians and their timetables!

That night we decide to go next door to the Pizza joint for pizza. Fantastic pizza – but far too much for Bob and I. We took one pizza home in a doggy bag!

Saturday – Positano

Again I plead for a rest day so Bob allows me to have the morning off. But this afternoon we head off, first by train to Sorrento and then by bus (yes bus!) to Positano. The ride to Positano is again along spectacular coastline – and it seems Bob and I must be getting used to the buses because the drive doesnt seem nearly as frightening as the one the other day. One the way, we pick up an American couple who have been waiting on the side of the road, with their suitcases for two hours. Apparently they were given the wrong timetable (or perhaps their bus just didnt turn up!).

Positano is positioned right on the beach, with its houses steeply stacked down its near vertical streets – a medley of peaches, pinks and terracottas. The bus drops you at the top and you can walk down or catch a little “loaf of bread” shaped bus down the steep, steep hill to Positano. Bob and I choose to walk but after 5 minutes, decide it is not the best idea and wait for the loaf of bread. Once we arrive in Positano, we think wow, this is wonderful. The village is full of art shops (each of which Bob and I make a close inspection of), clothes shops, a few little market stalls, cafes and restaurants. Today Bob and I bring our own crusty rolls so at lunch time we sit in the shade on the beach front sidewalk and watch a painter finish his painting of the Positano landscape – a lovely setting. Bob and I agree that of all the villages we have seen along the Amalfi coast, Positano is our favourite!

That evening, we decide boats are for whimps and catch the bus back to the train station at Meta for the short train ride home. As we board the bus, we look at the bus driver, the bus driver looks at us and says “No Sorrento”. We say, “Ok, no Sorrento, but Meta?” - “Si, Meta!” he responds. We quickly hand over our money and race up the aisle way laughing and laughing – it is the same bus driver from two days ago! Fortunately though, the bus driver is a little less agitated than the other day and the ride home is fine!

That night after we arrive home safely, we shower, dress up as much as campers can and head to a waterfront restaurant a few doors down from the campsite. It turns out to be a wonderful night – the restaurant has a garden section, right on the water with lovely white table clothes, and candles around the perimeter and on each table – a beautiful setting. Bob and I watch the sunset over the bay while enjoying a glass of Pinot Grigio. We had the menu of the day (a popular selection in Italy) which gives you a choice from three entrees, three mains and dessert. I chose the seafood salad as entree which was three types of fish, whiting, salmon and another cooked in oil and herbs – delicious. Bob had the seafood risotto for entree which was a delicious risotto full of calamari, clams, mussells, prawns and some white things (not sure what they were). Both of us followed our entree with grilled local fish with a fresh tomato sauce with peppers and tiny chunky potatoes. I couldnt go past gelato for dessert and Bob had some choclatey profiterole thingo. It was a superb night.

Sunday

Today, Bob allows a rest day – hooray! (although it is probably because the Formula 1 is being held this afternoon in Turkey!) Bob decides to ask the camp manager if he knows whether the F1 is being shown anywhere this afternoon. Well, Bob has struck gold – the camp manager is a F1 fan! Bob ends up ensconsed in the camp manager's arms (almost) while the camp manager explains that he and his brother run the campsite and the other brother runs the pizza cafe next door (the pizza place we went to the other night) – and they are all interested in F1. Well, Bob is now in thick with these guys and they go next door to the other brother at the pizza place. The F1 is being shown on the big TV screen in the pizza place and Bob is invited back at 2pm for a beer and pizza to watch. Bob ends up chatting to the brothers for a while and hears the story of their lives. During the summer, tourist season, they work seven days a week from about 7.30am to 10pm. During the winter months, the village is very slow and the campsite shuts. The boys them tend to the orange and lemon trees they have (the Amalfi area is reknowned for lemons). They ask Bob what he does for a living and Bob tries his best to explain – but all he gets in response is “ahh, manager – you rich!”. Anyway, Bob has a wonderful time at the races (once again) and I have a nice peaceful afternoon at the campsite.