Hydrofoils, fountains and gold at Peterhof
From Into Russia in Peterhof, Russia on Jul 25 '07
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We had read Peterhof was a good place to go, around a 30 minute ride by hydrofoil from the banks of the Neva out into the Gulf of Finland so we decided to go. We set off around 9.30 and wandered down to the riverbank, a familiar route by now and picked up a hydrofoil. The boat was Russian looking a little dated and a bit creaky but it was floating. We sat in airline style seats near the front, the best seats having been bagged by burly looking Russian family. After around fifteen minutes the engines fired up and the craft slowly pulled away into the centre of the river. Once aligned with the bridge the throttle was opened and we rose up out of the water and started to belt along skimming the water. I am not sure how fast we were going but we over took all other vessels we saw as if they were standing still. The ride was smooth a bit like a good fast intercity train, when onboard the speed does not seem so great, it is only from the platform one sees just how quick it is.
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It took about 35 minutes in the end before we arrived to a jetty, we slowly approached and the expert captain came along side. There were two or three other hydrofoils at the pier, we disembarked. I felt a little shaky after the voyage, not sea sick but a sensation of still moving even though we were on dry land. We followed the crowd along the jetty and walked five minutes or so along side a long narrow canal about three or four yards wide. The water looked a little green from algae and on the walls of the canal were carved faces in a "greek god" style. They had open mouths and a band of green slime down their chins but no water.
I was just overwhelmed by the sheer scale of the work that had been done here.
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After around five hundred yards we came to the main Summer Palace House. The building was raised up and in front was a elaborate stepped areas and at the bottom a large fountain. All was very impressive but still no water. It was at this point I spotted a man peering into a man hole and sticking out was a large "T" shaped object. The man then started earnestly to turn the handle and the water started to flow, slowly a first then a torrent of splashing, foam and noise. Water seemed to pour out of every sculpture and from unexpected parts of the figures. We walked up to the house and marveled at the fantastic cascades of water. It was at this point I reflected on the amazing sights we had seen and realized I had become desensitised to the wonder of what I had been seeing. When faced with the most ornate gold, marble and granite sculptures, fountains and buildings all immaculately preserved and in great numbers one becomes overawed, they loose their power. This not the arrogance of a British tourist thinking things are bigger and better at home, I was just overwhelmed by the sheer scale of the work that had been done here.
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We walked around the grounds and gardens and discovered fountain after fountain. Everyone had the same look on their faces, it was one if disbelief and awe. The palace grounds were vast and laid out over one hundred and thirty hectares with many palace buildings, sculptures and fountains throughout. We walked and saw most of the grounds and parks. The less energetic sightseers were being ferried around on rickshaw type bicycles, two seats at the front and the driver peddling furiously behind. After about four hours the tourist fatigue had really set in and we made our way back to the hydrofoil terminal.
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It had been a good day and I look back at the time we had spent there with disbelief and amazement.












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